Libertas bell control hookup: Difference between revisions

Latest revision as of 14:27, 9 October 2023

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Equipment and locations

Generally we provide three types of equipment to install in different areas of the facility.

User controls

Libertas master clock controller specification

The control panel, sometimes referred to as a master clock, head unit, and may be an electronic carillon is usually located in a sacristy or office area. Many times to save long wiring runs, it may be installed in a balcony area near the tower. In all cases, no ladders should need to be used to access the control panel.

Relay panels

High current switching should be as near the bells as practical. The weather resistant relay panels are, in most cases, installed in an enclosed tower chamber below the bells. Precision intelliSwing motor control panels should be within sight of swinging bells for ease of programming.

To prevent moisture from accumulating in the panels, always route conduit to the bottom of the boxes. NEVER penetrate the top surface of a relay panel.

Specific Relay Model Technical Data:

New Libertas 3700 Technical Data

Libertas 2034 Technical Data

Mechanical actuators

Tolling hammers, clappers and swinging motors are installed on the bells themselves and are usually supplied with at least an 18 inch pigtail. Junction boxes need to be located near enough to the actuator to allow connections. Flexible conduit is helpful to allow junction boxes to be re-located during the equipment installation. Separate low current conduits should be provided for swinging motor motion feedback signals (generally 12VDC logic signals).

Bells are always numbered from the largest (bell 1) to the smallest.

For swinging bells, the wheel side of the bell is where the swinging motor will be installed, and a tolling hammer will always be located on the opposite side from the wheel.

Stationary bells can have either outside tolling hammers or inside clappers. The electro-mechanical and physics aspects of this choice generally is made on the basis of how loud the bell is intended to ring. Gravity favors outside hammers helping the power of the striking of the bell. Gravity works against inside clappers resulting in a softer tone. Visual esthetics aside, choose clappers for musical instruments and hammers for tolling bells.

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-<div style="font-size:84%">'''[http://www.ChimeMaster.com Home] > [[Chime_Master_Help|Help]] > [[Installation_documentation|Installation]] '''</div><br />
+<div style="font-size:84%">'''[http://www.ChimeMaster.com Home] > [[Chime_Master_Help|Help]] > [[:Category:Installation|Installation]]'''</div><br />
-* [[Libertas_master_clock_controller|Libertas master clock controller specification]]
-== Hookup ==
+=== Equipment and locations ===
-Click the following diagram links to open in your browser or right click to download and save:
+Generally we provide three types of equipment to install in different areas of the facility.
-* [[Media:2034T1220W2.pdf|Single output bell controller hookup (PDF download)]]
-* [[Media:2034T3220W2.pdf|Three output bell controller hookup (PDF download)]]
-* [[Media:2034T4220W2.pdf|Four output bell controller hookup (PDF download)]]
-* Relay panel for up to 16 bells
-=== Data Cable ===
+==== User controls ====
-A twisted pair data cable is required and typically we use a minimum of CAT5 with RJ45 terminations. The pinout of the terminations and wire colors (B style pinout). The following colors appear top to bottom when cable exits the housing to the left and the clip is away from you:
+* [[Libertas_master_clock_controller|Libertas master clock controller specification]]
-Orange/White - 12VDC negative
+The control panel, sometimes referred to as a master clock, head unit, and may be an electronic carillon is usually located in a sacristy or office area. Many times to save long wiring runs, it may be installed in a balcony area near the tower. In all cases, no ladders should need to be used to access the control panel.
-Orange solid - 12VDC negative
-Green/White - Data A (RS485)
-Blue solid - Status B (RS485)
-Blue/White - Status A (RS485)
-Green solid - Data B (RS485)
-Brown/White - 12VDC positive
-Brown solid - 12VDC positive
-'''Crimping Procedure'''
+==== Relay panels ====
-# Cut cable to length
+High current switching should be as near the bells as practical. The weather resistant relay panels are, in most cases, installed in an enclosed tower chamber below the bells. Precision intelliSwing motor control panels should be within sight of swinging bells for ease of programming.
-# Strip 1-1/2" of outer jacket from cable without nicking conductors.
-# Pull the jacket back from the end as much as possible.
-# Fan-out conductor pairs, orange top, green, blue brown bottom.
-# Untwist green, arrange green/white above blue, solid green below.
-# Untwist blue, orient solid above blue/white
-# Untwist orange and brown pairs, keep solids below the striped.
-# Flatten the fan and bring together keeping the order shown above.
-# Use scissors to cut the conductors about 3/4" from jacket.
-# Double check wire order and insert conductors fully into the RJ45 connector as shown.
-# Crimp the connector using an RJ45 crimping tool.
-== Relay panel technical information ==
+To prevent moisture from accumulating in the panels, always route conduit to the bottom of the boxes. '''NEVER''' penetrate the top surface of a relay panel.
-=== Lights and test buttons ===
-At the top of the relay panel is a square board with three buttons with four lights at the top edge.
-The four lights are labeled:
+Specific Relay Model Technical Data:
- Power - Data - Fault - Status
+* ''New'' [[Bell Control Technical Data 3700|Libertas 3700 Technical Data]]
-The buttons may be labeled:
+[[File:3700T8.jpg|250px|link=Bell Control Technical Data 3700|Bell Control Technical Data 3700]]
- Reset - Test - Step
-At the bottom of this board, and sometimes installed on an auxiliary board attached with a ribbon cable, are one inch square output modules mounted vertically (four outputs on the main board, twelve outputs on the auxiliary board). For tolling outputs, there will be two timer adjustment controls. For motorized ringers there will not be adjustments. At the top of these boards is a green light that indicates the output is on. At the bottom of the board is a red light that indicates the output is driving a short circuit.
+* [[Bell Control Technical Data 2034|Libertas 2034 Technical Data]]
+[[File:2034RelayPanels.jpg|250px|link=Bell Control Technical Data 2034|Libertas 2034 Technical Data]]
-=== Test mode ===
+==== Mechanical actuators ====
-Hold the Test button (under the Data light) while momentarily clicking the Reset button (under the Power light). After the Fault light blinks you can let go of the Test button. The Data light should remain lit to indicate the panel is in the self-test mode.
+Tolling hammers, clappers and swinging motors are installed on the bells themselves and are usually supplied with at least an 18 inch pigtail. Junction boxes need to be located near enough to the actuator to allow connections. Flexible conduit is helpful to allow junction boxes to be re-located during the equipment installation. Separate low current conduits should be provided for swinging motor motion feedback signals (generally 12VDC logic signals).
-Press the Step button to sequence through the outputs. The tolling outputs will ring first then any motorized outputs will follow. Note that after ringing the Motorized outputs, the toll outputs will may locked out (hammer protect mode). If you need to test the tollers again, repeat the procedure above to reset the test mode (after the bells have ceased to swing).
+Bells are always numbered from the largest (bell 1) to the smallest.
-To repeat an output that you have stepped to, press the Test button to repeat it. This is useful for testing motorized outputs that time out after a second or so.
+For swinging bells, the wheel side of the bell is where the swinging motor will be installed, and a tolling hammer will always be located on the opposite side from the wheel.
-==== Exit test mode ====
+Stationary bells can have either outside tolling hammers or inside clappers. The electro-mechanical and physics aspects of this choice generally is made on the basis of how loud the bell is intended to ring. Gravity favors outside hammers helping the power of the striking of the bell. Gravity works against inside clappers resulting in a softer tone. Visual esthetics aside, choose clappers for musical instruments and hammers for tolling bells.
-The panel will reset to the standby mode in a couple of minutes. For immediate reset, press the Reset button so that the Data light goes out.
-=== Pulse Adjustments ===
-Each timer board has two adjustment potentiometers. The top adjustment sets the length of the pulse and the bottom adjustment sets the maximum repeat rate. For both cases, clockwise adjustments shorten the pulse and allows smaller bells to repeat faster.
-If the lower potentiometer is adjusted counter clockwise more than the upper adjustment, the ON pulse will be shortened to allow faster repeats.
-==== Pulse setting procedure for large tolling bells ====
-#Set the top adjustment fully clockwise
-#Set the bottom adjustment fully counter-clockwise
-#Turn top adjustment counterclockwise until the ringing does not get any louder
-==== Pulse setting procedure for small chime/carillon bells ====
-#Set both adjustments fully clockwise (short pulse)
-#Turn top adjustment counterclockwise until the ringing does not get any louder
-#If the top adjustment is fully counterclockwise and you can get the bell to ring louder by turning the bottom adjustment farther then continue adjusting the bottom adjustment until the desired performance is obtained.
-== Troubleshooting ==
-=== Fuse blows ===
-==== Test Open Output ====
-Disconnect output wires from PCB for the bell that blows fuse. If fuse still blows without anything connected, the rectifier is probably at fault. Most panels have socketed rectifiers that can be replaced. Be sure to align the angled corner (positive lead) correctly when inserting the replacement.
-==== Test Alternate Output ====
-If the output in question does not blow the fuse when its output is not connected, try connecting the bell to another output (lower numbered output for high current fuse). If the other output fuse blows there is a problem with the striker or wiring.
 [[Category:Installation]]
+[[Category:Troubleshooting]]