IntelliSwing 2052 motor installation
- 1 PDF Diagrams
- 2 Theory of operation
- 3 Troubleshooting
Click to open in your browser or right click to save link (download):
- intelliSwing 2052 motor hookup (PDF)
- intelliSwing 2052 motor installation overview (PDF)
- intelliSwing 2052 chain bracket detail (PDF)
- intelliSwing 2052 motor chip instructions (PDF)
- intelliSwing 2052 motor schematic diagram (PDF)
Theory of operation
Power always comes into the junction box (j-box) to the Black L1 (Line 1) and Blue L2 (Line 2) wires. Black enters the j-box from the control box mounted on the end of the motor. Blue comes out of the motor housing.
To enable the motor to ring the bell, the violet wire K-lead or Kontact coming out of the control box is wired through a switch (or relay) to the blue power lead. This switch will see less than 100mA, but must be rated for at least 250V. An ordinary light switch will work.
If only two power wires (and a ground) can be run to the motor, tie the violet control wire K-lead to the blue L2 and switch the current with a dual line relay or contactor rated for the motor power.
The motor is driven by the circuit in only one direction. Direction of rotation is determined by tying combinations of motor starting winding wires together as shown in the wiring diagram. Wire nuts in the j-box are labeled on the diagram as MA, MB and MC for direction selection. See the diagrams for clarification.
- Wire nut MA always has a red wire from the control box and a yellow wire from the motor windings.
- Wire nut MB always has a blue wire from the motor windings and L2 from the power disconnect.
- Wire nut MC always has a white and an orange wire from the motor windings.
The remaining motor winding wires are red and black. Rotation is as viewed from the control box end of the motor.
- For clockwise rotation, the red motor winding wire ties to MA and MC gets the black wire.
- For counter-clockwise rotation, black ties to MA and MC gets the red motor winding wire.
The control program is on an 8-pin dip chip that plugs into the socket labeled U2. The label should be right reading when the chip is inserted correctly, which means that index notches or dots should be upwards.
The motor may be supplied with chips for clockwise (suffix F) and/or counter-clockwise rotation (suffix R). Make sure the proper chip is installed for the direction the motor is wired to run.
Numbers on the chip greater than "02" indicate how many quarter rotations of the motor the circuit will try to maintain as a swinging angle when the adjustment potentiometer is set to its mid point. "02" is a minimum pulse chip for small bells.
Chips with an "H" suffix (as in 24FH) are meant for heavy bells. The controller is more tolerant of stalls with this code.
Optical rotation sensing
Two reflective optical sensors 'watch' the painted disk rotate. They are located on the back of the control PCB so that RPM, rotation counts and direction of rotation can be detected. There should be approximately 1/8 inch of clearance between the wheel and the sensors. Early motors have press on plastic disks. Later motors have metal disks with set screws that provide more reliable feedback, and can be ordered from us for field update.
Lights on the control PCB
The intelliSwing 2052 control PCB inside the control box on the end of the motor has four lights:
- PWR - Power is on (solid green) and K-lead is switched to L2
- RUN - lights when the motor is being pulsed with the solid state relay
- STALL - lights when the controller detects that the motor is being slowed by the load
- ERR - lights when the motor is unable to run correctly (motor will be shut down, must recycle power to retry)
If the motor is hooked up, getting power and the board is getting power from the K-lead (see drawing PDF above), the PWR Light should come on.
If only the Power light comes on check the chip orientation and proper pin insertion (no pins bent). The RUN light should blink right after the motor is enabled. While the run light is lit, a hum should be audible from the motor, and it should rotate (see symptoms below).
If the motor tries to run and shuts off right away, it may be wired to turn the opposite direction than the chip is programmed to detect.
Symptoms and solutions
Motor appears to be dead
- Open the junction box and re-make all wire nut connections, cutting and stripping oxidized wires. Use quality brass set-screw type wire nuts.
- Check the 1/4A fuse on the control PCB inside the motor control housing. If it is blown, the PWR light will not come on.
- Try connecting the violet K-lead to L2 (with circuit breaker off). If the motor runs when power is turned on, then the problem is with the control line going to the K-lead. Check relay panels or switches.
Motor rotates but bell doesn't move
The chain cog should be checked for security on a regular basis. An 1/8 inch allen key will tighten the set screws. If the cog becomes loose, the shaft key may fall out preventing transmission of the motor torque to the chain.
Motor hums but shaft doesn't rotate
The symptom is a humming motor that does not rotate even though they aren't locked up. You can also start the motor swinging by hand, then enable it from the controller and it will continue to swing, but will not restart on its own. There are two potential failures with this symptom.
Faulty starting Capacitor
- 1/3 HP uses Mallory 233-280MFD 110VAC (globalindustrial.com PN WBB430350)
- 1/2 HP uses Mallory 340-408MFD 110VAC (1-3/8 diameter - hard to find) Grainger 6FLK6 is 1-7/16 dia.
Faulty centrifugal Switch
Most 2052 motors were built with the start capacitor enable at startup by a centrifugal switch. These contacts may burn out over time because they open and close with each swing of the bell. This switch isn't needed because of the pulsing output of the motor control PCB. The motor never truly enters a 'run' mode, it is always essentially starting.
Beginning in 2015, motors that have the centrifugal switch bypassed in production will have a label on the control box indicating Mod-C.
How to bypass a faulty centrifugal switch
This is not easy in the shop, and difficult on site because it is easiest to disassemble while the motor is held vertically in a fixture.
The centrifugal switch is in the control box end of the motor.
- Disconnect the wires from the control box in the junction box.
- Remove PCB from control box.
- Remove painted code disk. Older motors used plastic disks. Replace with PN 89002052 metal disk and two PN 80850624 set screws.
- Remove four nuts on the standoffs holding the box on the motor.
- Remove the four standoffs and nuts holding the end cap on the motor.
- Cut the terminals off of the two wires going to the plastic switch bracket.
- Use a wire nut to connect them together.
- Use a wire tie to secure them to the switch bracket.
- Reassemble motor by reversing previous steps.
- Place a
Clabel on the control box.