Buried cable: Difference between revisions
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<div style="font-size:84%">'''[http://www.ChimeMaster.com Home] > [[Chime_Master_Help|Help]] > [[Electrical glossary]]'''</div> | <div style="font-size:84%">'''[http://www.ChimeMaster.com Home] > [[Chime_Master_Help|Help]] > [[Electrical glossary]]'''</div> | ||
Occasionally we will need to wire between buildings. Free standing towers | Occasionally we will need to wire between buildings. Free standing towers needing speaker audio wiring, power and/or control cabling are included in this type of installation. | ||
== Always Use Conduit == | == Always Use Conduit == | ||
Latest revision as of 21:53, 27 July 2022
Occasionally we will need to wire between buildings. Free standing towers needing speaker audio wiring, power and/or control cabling are included in this type of installation.
Always Use Conduit
Use Schedule 40 or 80 PVC. Run separate tubes for high voltage electrical and low voltage speaker lines and control cables. Minimize turns and use sweeps. Include a pull string.
Always Use PVC
Depending on your soils, aluminum conduit will be destroyed in 2 or 3 years, and galvanized steel in 5 to 10. Always use PVC.
Deep and Wide
Bury at least 18 inches below finished grade. Keep high and low voltage conduits at least one foot from each other.
Cement is safe
Encase conduits in 'slurry in a sack' of cement, sand and if possible an unnatural color to signal future digging equipment operators. When they hit man made sandstone, an investigation should ensue before damage is done.